SAREES OF MOLAKALMURU
As a part of heritage textiles course with Smart Handloom Innovation Centre and National Institute of Design, Bengaluru and Department of Textiles, Karnataka Government, a team of three students were send to study the Molkalmuru sarees of Karnataka and come up with design solutions to improve its market. The scope of work included learning about the weaving practices in Molkalmuru, the town where the sarees are made, building a lexicon of the design language, market study, studying the data collected to trace the value chain an distinguishing the points where interventions could take place. We also got an opportunity to design a Molakalmuru saree each after learning its techniques thoroughly.
As a part of heritage textiles course with Smart Handloom Innovation Centre and National Institute of Design, Bengaluru and Department of Textiles, Karnataka Government, a team of three students were send to study the Molkalmuru sarees of Karnataka and come up with design solutions to improve its market. The scope of work included learning about the weaving practices in Molkalmuru, the town where the sarees are made, building a lexicon of the design language, market study, studying the data collected to trace the value chain an distinguishing the points where interventions could take place. We also got an opportunity to design a Molakalmuru saree each after learning its techniques thoroughly.
The saree's body has subtle engineered yellow lines forming negative temple border. Borders have the traditional Molakalmuru mango motifs of zari. The pallu has repeating border designs as seen in a traditional Molakalmuru saree. I tried to give a new direction to the extravagant design vocabulary the traditional Molakalmuru sarees have.
The design intervention of inserting extra weft as reverse temple border spread like wildfire among the weavers. The design is now adopted into their own repertoire. The above images shows one kind of adaptation.
From the whole experience, we were able to conclude that, weaving scenario in India has undergone numerous changes over the years. Each nook and corner of the country boasts of their indigenous techniques and skills. However, due to the rapid increase in automatic machinery, the handloom weaving sector faces a great threat.
Charts made to understand and analyse the situation in Molakalmuru to build constructive strategies.
Course guided by: Meera Naidu, Aditi Ranjan, V. Sakthivel, Swasti Singh Ghai
Shoot location- Sarkhej Roza, Ahmedabad
Model- Ancy Ekka
A number of crafts have already bit the metaphorical dust while struggling to stay afloat in the competitive market. Others, have had to change to a degree that it no longer holds the characteristics of the original craft. In either of the scenarios, it is the craftsmen that pay the price. the plan of action needs to ensure that it administers sustainable source of income, as well as a content working environment for the craftsmen. It is only when the weavers are enthusiastic about their craft, can the work and products thrive and stay relevant to the ever changing needs of the society.